What Japan Taught Me

Chef Ian Ramirez won the grand prize in our Chef Contest: a trip to Japan. Here’s what the experience taught him about cuisine, craftsmanship, culture, kindness, and some very cool ingredients.

In the fall of 2023, we partnered with our friends at Chef’s Roll to create the INSPIRED BY KIKKOMAN Chef Competition. We challenged chefs to submit their most creative, trend-forward recipes featuring Kikkoman® Soy Sauce for the chance to win a trip to Japan.

From among the more than 170 outstanding entries we received, our panel of judges awarded the grand prize to Chef Ian Ramirez, founder of Mad Honey Culinary Studio, a Michigan-based culinary R&D consultancy.

Chef Ian traveled to Japan in March 2024, and we asked him to share some of his favorite culinary and cultural experiences, discoveries, and “aha moments.”

Q: What unique ingredients did you discover in Japan that you believe could bring new dimensions to Western dishes?

A: At an unforgettable “Kikkoman Soy Sauce Experience” meal, we had a sauce made with moromi—the fermented soybean mash used to make soy sauce. I found this salty, umami-packed ingredient to be unique and very intriguing. I will definitely be using moromi in my cooking and recipe development (if I can get my hands on some!). Another of my more memorable meals was at the Pullman Hotel where my good friend Chef Hiroki “Hulk” Kato prepared an amazing multicourse meal. One of the dishes was grilled mackerel with cauliflower foam garnished with red Australian finger lime “caviar” that provided a super fun citrus burst. I will definitely be stealing that combination.

Another chef friend, Mami Imai, brought me to a fermentation lab where we were able to try all things fermented and pickled in Japanese cuisine. Lots of different vegetables, seafood, and koji (the seed mold used to make soy sauce and sake) of all types, including clear koji. This was extra special for me since I love this kind of “funk exploration.” Sake kasu (the pressed lees left over from sake production) was a very intriguing product with a texture and flavor that reminded me of a cross between miso and sake.

I loved trying nukazuke-style rice-bran fermented and cured fish which has a texture almost like jerky. It was salty, full of flavor and umami, and, surprisingly, not at all fishy. Ayu was a cured fish that had a funky, sweet-salty, cheese-like flavor to it. It went perfectly with a glass of sparkling sake and crackers. These were absolutely stunning ingredients that I could see using in myriad ways to add umami to dishes.

Chef Mami also suggested that I visit a seaweed shop called Numatanori while I was exploring the kitchenware district of Tokyo, Kappabashi, to look for new ingredients or products to import. The shop is run by a mother-son team, and they were the kindest, most sincere people ever! They shared with me their passion for seaweed and opened my eyes to the huge flavor profile differences between different varieties. They showed me how various types of seaweed are harvested all over Japan. I had no idea I was in for such a treat!

Q: Tell us about the touring Kikkoman’s soy sauce production facility. What surprised you, and what did you discover?

A: It was incredible! I got a personal tour of the Kikkoman plant in Noda, about an hour and a half train ride northeast of Tokyo. I arrived early to walk around the town. The minute I stepped off the train, I was hit with the pleasing smell of Shoyu in the air. Noda is quiet and quaint with beautiful Japanese homes and perfectly manicured gardens. Everything was so clean and orderly—something that I find comforting as a chef who lives by the term mise en place!

As I entered the facility, I was greeted by a gracious host who directed me to the gift shop so I could look at the unique products and gifts. After I picked out some fun items, my guides treated me to an amazing tour of the facility that began with a brief presentation on the centuries-long history of Kikkoman and how Soy Sauce is made. We were shown the beginning stages of the fermentation process using Kikkoman’s proprietary koji, Kikkoman Aspergillus. (Unfortunately, they wouldn’t let me take any of it with me to add to my Koji collection!) Then we walked through the facility to see the entire production process and finished the tour at the Mame Café with some delicious shoyu soft-serve ice cream.

From there, we paid a visit to Kikkoman‘s Imperial Soy Sauce Brewery—a beautiful building that was moved to this site and reconstructed to show how soy sauce has been made for centuries using traditional techniques. And it’s not just a museum. This brewery still makes a special soy sauce for the Imperial Families of Japan.

We ended the day with a hands-on class that included a tasting of different types of soy sauce. I was struck by how distinctive different soy sauces can be—just like wine or beer! And also, how little the brewing process has changed over the centuries—also just like wine or beer! My recommendation to all chefs and foodies: If you’re planning a trip to Tokyo, be sure to book a tour of the Noda facility and museum!

Q: What traditional cooking techniques did you encounter that you found particularly inspiring? How do you plan to incorporate them into your own recipes?

A: The Kikkoman team brought me to a traditional Japanese teppanyaki (griddle-based) restaurant that’s owned and operated by Kikkoman. I had the most incredible multicourse meal that was unlike any kind of Hibachi traditionally done in the US. And I’m talking worlds apart, not even in the same galaxy! One of the courses featured the largest scallops I’ve ever seen in my life. Chef Iijima carefully dissected the scallop right on the griddle into its multiple sections of mantle, main abductor muscle, roe and gills. He then meticulously cooked and sliced all of the pieces perfectly. When he was finished, he deglazed the grill with soy sauce, to get all of the scallop fond and made a spectacular dressing with shallots, garlic and oil.

It was instantly obvious that Chef Iijima is an absolute master of his craft. This attention to detail and respect for ingredients is something I plan to incorporate into my own recipes.

Learning teppanyaki grilling technique from Chef Iijima, a master of the craft. Signature presentations featured scallops and wagyu steak. Shinjuku is known for ramen, so we had to partake of this local treat after we had late night drinks in the Golden Gai district. With its umami-rich broth and tender noodles, it was the perfect culinary indulgence to bring the night to an end.

Osaka is known for their okonomiyaki. We made late-night trip there just to try this insanely filling and delicious dish. It was hands down the best I’ve ever experienced, and we also had front row seats to watch them create this edible work of art.

A late-night bowl of ramen in Shinjuku.

Q: What did you learn about the cultural approach to food in Japan that has influenced your own perspective on menu creation? What lessons can US-based chefs learn from this to enhance their own culinary practices?

A: The idea of becoming expert in a singular craft or item, I find particularly appealing. There’s not a lot of that approach here in the west. I feel that we try to focus on becoming knowledgeable in a multitude of cuisines, crafts and ideas, but rarely focus or dedicate our lives to perfecting any one thing. There are pros and cons to this approach; however, I greatly respect and admire the Japanese for this.

Q: What practical tips would you give to chefs who are looking to integrate Japanese-inspired elements into their current menus?

A: I encourage chefs to embrace global ingredients and cultural techniques to enhance their dishes with unique flavors and experiences. While it’s important to respect traditional methods, don’t be afraid to experiment and adapt these elements to your own style. The unexpected flavor profiles will undoubtedly spark curiosity and delight among your diners.

Integrating or adding Japanese inspiration to your menu can come from so many places in the culture—not just from ingredients and techniques. You can draw inspiration from things like Japanese architecture, pottery, calligraphy, gardens, artwork and the country’s rich history and traditions.

Q: Is there anything else you experienced on your trip that you would like to share?

A: Ironically I had the best burger of my life on this trip—not something I was expecting! It was in the city of Kyoto, and there was a small and unassuming restaurant named “Upit” where the chefs have perfected their craft. It was a life-changing burger.

Breakfast in Japan was very unlike the classic western morning meal of eggs and bacon. Our breakfasts were colorful, plant forward, and filled with things like miso soup to keep that gut health in check.

The craftsmanship of Japanese chef knives is among the best in the world. A lot of the knife makers come from a lineage of generations of Samurai sword makers, and it is a real treat for a chef to go and explore this part of Japan. World-class knives can be found in the Kappabashi kitchenware district. I spent all too much on knives when I visited, and I assume I will do the same next time I visit too!

Q: What life-lessons did you take away from this trip?

A: Speaking as a seasoned traveler and professional eater, I must say that the food experiences here were among the best I’ve had anywhere. Beyond the high-quality ingredients, handled and prepared with care and respect, I was impressed by the attention to food safety and hygiene. For the most part, I feel they were better than anything I’ve witnessed in the US.

Japanese culture seems to have this mentality of looking out for each other, creating a sense of collective care. It’s the opposite of the individualistic approach of the American mindset, and I find it beautiful and inspiring. They have a culture based on respect—a feeling that “everyone is looking out for me, so I don’t have to worry about me. And at the same time, I’m looking out for everyone around me, so they don’t have to worry about themselves.” It’s unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. I found myself conforming to this mindset immediately and felt the need to take care of anyone around me, it was very centering and calming.