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CHEF CALVIN ENG: CANTONESE AMERICAN COOKING FROM THE HEART


Cantonese American Cooking From the Heart


Chef Calvin Eng

Chef Calvin Eng

Bonnie’s | Brooklyn


Soy Sauce Hack: Wok Magic

“If you hit a hot wok with soy sauce around the edges and let it caramelize before adding your ingredients, you get this incredible, smoky depth of flavor. It’s a game-changer.”


At Bonnie’s in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, every plate tells a story — the story of a kid who grew up between Chinatown and Brooklyn, who once tried to blend in, and who now proudly celebrates the flavors that shaped him. Chef Calvin Eng, a Kikkoman Kitchen Cabinet inductee, is putting Cantonese American cooking in the spotlight — with a voice, vision, and heart all his own.


Calvin Eng didn’t always plan on being a chef — much less a flag bearer for Cantonese flavors. As a kid, he grew up eating massive family-style dinners his mom would make every night: whole fish, stir-fried vegetables, Cantonese charcuterie, and plenty of steamed jasmine rice.


He also tagged along with his mom through the tight, fragrant alleys of Manhattan’s Chinatown. She’d chat in Toisanese with fishmongers and produce vendors, filling her bags with fresh greens, roast duck, and pastries — while he’d sulk, wishing for peanut butter sandwiches like the “more American” kids at school.


Years later, fresh out of culinary school and working near Chinatown, something shifted. Wandering those same streets, he noticed which shops had closed and which had survived. “It hit me that there was no better time to reconnect with my heritage,” he says. “I started to feel proud. Speaking Toisanese with the shopkeepers and seeing their faces light up — it felt like coming home.”


A Restaurant Built on Memory

Bonnie’s, named for his mom, is Calvin’s love letter to that homecoming. It’s not a strictly Cantonese restaurant or an “elevated” reinvention of tradition — it’s personal.


“Every dish starts with a memory,” Calvin says. “Something I grew up eating at home, at a banquet hall, or in a restaurant with my family. From there, I build it out with my own techniques, flavors, and ideas. I’m not chasing authenticity — I’m telling my story.”


He’s also on a mission to shift perceptions. “Cantonese food is one of the most technical, nuanced cuisines out there,” he says. “I want people to understand that — and to taste it for themselves.”


The stories Calvin tells at Bonnie’s have resonated. The restaurant has drawn raves from The New York Times, Bon Appétit, and Eater, and earned him nods as a James Beard Award finalist, Forbes 30 Under 30 honoree, StarChefs Rising Star, and Food & Wine Best New Chef.


Flavor Without Compromise

For Calvin, seasoning is the backbone of good cooking — and consistency matters. That’s why he turns to Kikkoman.


“Growing up in Brooklyn, we always had Kikkoman® Soy Sauce in the pantry,” he says. “I think of soy sauce as salt, flavor, and umami in one bottle. It balances fat and acid beautifully and adds layers of complexity to everything. A little goes a long way in any cuisine.”


He especially appreciates Kikkoman’s gluten-free options — including Soy Sauce, Hoisin, and Panko — because they let him serve everyone without sacrificing flavor. “I never want a dietary restriction to be the reason someone can’t experience my food,” he says.


Congee Arancini

Rice Balls, Reimagined

“I find a lot of similarities between Cantonese and Italian food,” Calvin says. “Both focus on minimal, excellent ingredients and on incorporating cured and preserved elements to add savory depth and umami.” “Congee — creamy, slow-cooked rice porridge — isn’t far from risotto,” he explains. “And Italian arancini are made from risotto. So I thought I’d ditch my usual congee ratio of rice to water to make a creamy, concentrated base that holds up to cheese, country ham, ginger, and cilantro.”

He rolls that mixture into balls, coats them with Kikkoman® Gluten-Free Panko, and fries them for a golden, shatteringly crisp crust. And, nodding to their Italian inspiration, he serves them with house-made marinara.

Chef’s Tip: He rolls that mixture into balls, coats them with Kikkoman® Gluten-Free Panko, and fries them for a golden, shatteringly crisp crust. And, nodding to their Italian inspiration, he serves them with house-made marinara.

VIEW RECIPE

Bottle

Roast Chicken with a Hoisin Jus

Sweet, Savory & Shareable

“One of my favorite Cantonese roast meat shop items is the roast duck hanging in the windows,” Calvin says. “It’s insanely flavorful, juicy, and perfect with rice.”

To capture that flavor in a new way, he uses spatchcocked chicken as his canvas. He spreads a blend of Kikkoman® Gluten-Free Hoisin Sauce, Oyster Sauce, and seasonings under the skin, marinating the bird overnight. This technique allows the skin to dry out, yielding juicy chicken with classically lacquered skin, which he serves with an intensely flavored hoisin jus. “Kikkoman® Gluten-Free Hoisin Sauce has this beautiful balance of sweet, acidic, and umami flavors from plums and miso,” Calvin says. “It’s bold but incredibly versatile — and I love that it’s gluten-free.”

Chef’s Tip: Serve the hoisin jus on the side so guests can customize their dip.

VIEW RECIPE

Bottle
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