CHEFS NANDO CHANG AND FERNANDO CHANG: Inspired by Kikkoman

In Miami, a family of chefs is taking Nikkei cuisine to new heights of craftsmanship and flavor. 

In Peru, there’s a popular cuisine that combines influences from Peru and Japan. It’s called Nikkei, named for the Japanese term for emigrants of Japanese origin and their descendants. And these days, one of the best places to experience the cutting edge of Nikkei cooking is in Miami, at the restaurants of Chef Nando Chang, his father, Chef Fernando Chang, and his sister, Chef Valerie Chang. 

Nando and Valerie grew up in the coastal city of Chiclayo, Peru in a Peruvian Chinese family and moved to Miami when Nando was 14 and Valerie was 10. Fernando, known in the family as “Papa Chang,” found work as a sushi chef, and instilled in his children a passion for the culinary arts. He also taught them to cherish and respect the ocean and the beauty of impeccably prepared fresh seafood—a tradition that harkens back to the family’s Peruvian roots and continues to inform their cooking in Miami today. 

The Changs currently own and operate three Miami restaurants. Chef Nando’s main focus is Itamae Ao, a seasonally inspired tasting- menu concept. Chef Valerie runs the kitchen at Maty’s, a 150-seat restaurant that offers fresh takes on traditional Peruvian cooking. And Chef Fernando leads the family’s sushi restaurant, B-Side. 

“Gastronomically, Peru is a reflection of the influences of so many immigrants from other countries,” says Chef Nando. “Nikkei cuisine is all about what Japanese immigrants have taught us. A great example is Peruvian ceviche. Japanese cooks showed us how to think of it more like sashimi—dressing raw seafood just before serving, instead of ‘cooking’ it in an acidic marinade. You can see that influence in every cevicheria in Peru. Octopus is another example,” he adds. “It was never consumed in Peru until Japanese fisherman and cooks taught us how to serve it raw. Now we eat it all the time in dishes like Pulpo al Olivo—octopus sashimi with Peruvian olives.” 

When asked to describe his own take on Nikkei cuisine at Itamae Ao, Chef Nando sums it up like this: “Pristine product, Peruvian chiles, Japanese techniques, and Miami seasonality.” He takes pride in sourcing and serving the freshest seafood and bringing out its flavor. “Japanese cooking is about highlighting the natural flavors of an ingredient,” he says. “The more a cook can enhance that natural flavor, that’s the measure of their skill. If you can make a prawn taste like the best prawn you ever ate, that’s what it’s all about. And soy sauce, with its rich umami, is a great way to do that, because it doesn’t just add flavor, it actually boosts the flavor of other ingredients.” 

One ingredient source Chef Nando has always relied on for quality and consistency is Kikkoman. “We use the regular and Less Sodium Soy Sauces, the Kotteri Mirin®️ and the Hoisin Sauce, and I love the texture of Panko. I also use the Tempura Batter Mix as a dredging flour to give a light, crisp coating to all kinds of fried foods.” 

So what’s it like working together as a family? “When it comes to our professional cooking, we stay in our own lanes,” says Chef Nando. “But when it comes to cooking for each other, brainstorming about the businesses, or just hanging out, that’s where we always feel the love.” 

Curious about Nikkei cuisine and where it’s heading? Here are four of Chef Nando’s most popular dishes to inspire you.