When you’re standing in the condiment aisle of your local store, one bottle of soy sauce may look much like another. But soy sauces are not all the same. In fact, there are two ways manufacturers make soy sauce: one that relies on the natural process of fermentation and one that takes a chemical shortcut. Although the result looks similar at first glance, they don’t taste or smell the same, and that difference can transform your cooking and dining experience.

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A hand dips a breaded chicken tender coated in sauce, shown in close-up on a smartphone screen displaying a food video.